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When compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. Yet, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble shop earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary honour.